Saturday, April 2, 2011

Did you know… Turkey

Did you know that Turks pay an average of 3.5 to 4 Turkish lira per liter of petrol? While we complain about $3.00 per gallon gas, Turks are forking out $9 per gallon. Fortunately, public transportation is affordable and accessible. Metro/subways, buses, and ferries cost about 1.7 TL per ride, just over $1 USD.

Did you know that many Turks have a great sense of humor? Korhan, our 27 year old couch surfing host in Izmir, had us doubled over laughing with his story about kids being his personal kryptonite. When he discovered that his nephew had broken his Darth Vader collectible light saber, he asked his nephew, “Are these your toys?” He then broke several of his nephew’s toys. As he told this story, he made swatting motions targeted toward imaginary children. Later, as we walked to the ferry, he yelled “OMG, kryptonite” and started falling over as a classroom of children calmly walked past. Mark and I nearly died laughing at his antics.

Did you know that Turks love to tsk each other? I detest the tsk. It’s condescending and rude, but perfectly conveys disapproval, disgust, irritation, impatience, annoyance, and condescension all in three little clicks of the tongue. Turks tsk other drivers, pedestrians, clerks, friends… in short, everyone, and when severe enough, the tsk is accompanied by a waggle of the pointer finger.

Did you know that Turks have their own special kind of ice cream? It’s called Dondurmas. When I ordered it, I didn’t know it was special, so I was not amused when the street vender handed me the ice cream and promptly ripped it back out of my hands. The ice cream is stretchy and it sticks to the metal pole (think crow bar) that the vender uses to dish it up, so when the vender hands it to you and pulls it back, people laugh or reach for it. I didn’t know that the teasing came standard with the purchase. I just thought he was some prick pranking me for no apparent reason. I gave him my best glare that said, “Listen, asshole, I’m not amused. Now give me back my ice cream.” When we told Khorhan about this experience, he empathized with a story from his childhood and described it as “humiliation.”

Did you know that despite winter temperatures, Turks prefer to eat at open-air restaurants and cafes. Patrons bundle up in winter jackets to sip tea, smoke nargeli (shisha/hookah), and play board games at outdoor sea-side cafes. When sunset comes, servers drag out T-shaped outdoor heating lamps for each table. Some cafes will also offer blankets.

Did you know that Turkey is covered in cats? We couldn’t be happier about this fact, although an aggressive Bob Barker spay and neuter program could really help the situation. There are scads of cats at every restaurant, on balconies, in dumpsters, at historical ruin sites… they’re everywhere, and some are incredibly friendly and loving while others can’t help but bite or scratch when petted.

Did you know that the Mediterranean diet is a great way to GAIN weight? Sadly, unexpectedly, this is true. I thought we’d be eating a lot of vegetables (our as the new-to-English Turks pronounce it, “W”egetables), but actually, we’ve been chowing down on a lot of high-fat olives, cheeses, and simple carb breads. Mark and I went on a 4 day spree of exhaustion. We drank tea and spiked our blood sugar with sweets to obtain a little energy, but it was short-lived. We napped on every bus ride and nearly fell asleep while we were walking. Finally, I realized we were lacking sufficient meat/protein, complex carbohydrates, and veggies/fruits. We made an effort to splurge for a meal of chicken Tex-Mex and felt strong and alert for the first time in days. We joked that we could make a documentary on Turkey that mirrored “Super-Size Me.” We’d show the progression from normal and happy to fat and depressed. In only 3 short weeks in Turkey, I had managed to gain an easy 10 lbs and felt like I now owned the cheeks and chin of Gwenth Paltrow in “Shallow Hal.” I was hungry and never full. I walked 5-10 miles per day, and still I was gaining weight. Women, it’s still worth coming to Turkey, but beware, those simple carbs are a killer for the waist-line.

Did you know that although Turkey is affluent like America, some Turks will rip you off? Mark and I have had a hard time figuring this one out. Our couch-surfing hosts had been so generous, friendly, and kind we felt obligated to give all Turks the benefit of the doubt, but taxis and bus drivers (and occasionally small grocers) shouldn’t always be trusted. Repeatedly, we were ripped off for small amounts and because of the language barrier we just moved on, but if it happens again, someone’s getting a tsk.

Did you know that white Americans stand out in Turkey? In my heart, I felt like I blended in just fine, but when kids stare on the street or people stare and occasionally point and laugh on the bus, I remember that I am not from here. I am blonde-haired, blue-eyed, not brown-eyed, brown-haired, but in my heart, I belong here in Turkey, the mid-point where East meets West, the place where the Christian church began, the place where I am happy to be learning.

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