Paracas National Marine Reserve

It seems that everyone who comes to Ecuador considers going to the Galápagos Islands. When Mark and I considered South America, we considered including the Galápagos Islands in our loose itinerary, but, in the end, we chose to spend our money at Machu Picchu. After all, just a few days in the Galapagos runs about $1,400 per person. Granted, I'm sure it's awesome, but our backpacker's budget wasn't big enough to do it all. Anyway, we did do an excursion out of Paracas, Peru which is considered "The Poor Man's Galapagos." I don't think it's fair to compare, but the Ballesta islands are pretty awesome.

For 35 soles ($12 USD) The tour begins at a boat harbor at 8am. You snuggle up to 30 of your closest friends and everyone sports a bright orange life vest. During the months of July and August, the skies are continuously overcast, so it feels a bit like the east coast or San Fran in the States, which can be a bit depressing if you're coming to stay, but most people roll through town in 1-2 days which isn't long enough to get depressed (unless you're addicted to the sun). We stayed for 3 days, but back to the 2 hour tour.

On Poor Man's boat, you're not guaranteed a seat next to your sweetheart. As some of the last folks to board, I had to ask a young man to swap out his seat next to some ladies, so that Mark and I could sit side-by-side. The girls in front of me were noticeably irritated to lose their pal, but I was thankful to sit next to my esposo.

The first "wildlife sighting" is seagulls. They drape themselves all over the ships in the harbor. The smart car sized gulls who can't find room on the ships are left to roam the skies. Mark and I laughed as we watched them dive-bomb the sea in search of fish for breakfast.

I thought the 3 striped red and white Peruvian flag lacked creativity until I heard the legend of its origin: the white represents the back of the flamingo while the red sides represent it's pink wings in flight.

Poor Man's Galapagos does not include sunshine, or melanin tablets *depressive sigh*

After about a 10-15 minute drive, we arrived at the giant Paracan Candalabro, a carving in the mountain created in the 3rd century BC. Oddly enough, candalabras were't known yet in the New World, so some people speculate that it's instead a cactus. Either way, it's cool that someone took the time to carve some lasting artwork into the side of the mountain, and that it has withstood the test of time and weather.

Candalabro

After we'd sufficiently photographed the Candalabro, our boat headed toward the other islands. From the side of the boat, we watched sea lion heads pop up to take a break from their fishing and exploration; they were curious about what we were up to as we sped past. When we arrived at the islands, they were covered in birds, not just flying ones, but also my favorite tuxedo-wearing, waddling variety- penguinos!

Candalabro

Archway

Penguins!

The sea lions were also hanging out nearby. They barked and nipped at each other to jockey for position. For being lazy, they sure put a lot of work into becoming king of the hill.

Penguins!

Sea lions, jockying for position at the top of the rock, which is silly because there's not even good sunlight to bask in

more sea lions- guy on the right looks like he's ready to slip and slide back into the water

sea lion

Birds everywhere! And this is the low season!

Our guide told us that bird guano is great fertilizer. It gets harvested from the area every 8 years.

The sky was loaded with birds. In the summer, I guess people wear coverings so as not to get dropped on.

We saw dozens of dolphins on the way back.

The sky was loaded with birds. In the summer, I guess people wear coverings so as not to get dropped on.

After the morning tour, we paid 25 soles for an additional tour to the National Preserve. Having done it, I wouldn't recommend it, but it was there, and we did. The museum itself was cool, just not the bus ride through the park on the crappy bus with someone's knees in my back.

Extinct giant sized penguins and seagulls

Our second stop was the Cathedral. It used to have a rock arch-way that connected the island to the mainland, but in the earthquake of 2007, it crumbled. This was the only photo that Mark wanted, because it was on the brochure. They might have mentioned in advance that it's no longer intact... but then again, we wouldn't have gone on the tour.

Where the Cathedral arch used to be

Salt vein in the earth, runs along the sea

Lunch stop, seafood

So, it wasn't the Gallapagos, but we had a nice time around Paracas. It's worth a 2-3 day visit, but I would suggest going sometime other than July/August because that big grey blanket in the sky is tough on those of us who have become addicted to sunshine.

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